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AAA Plus Floors R Us, dba Bertrem Custom Tile  » Services » Granite » CARE AND MAINTENANCE

Care and Maintenance of Tile and Stone

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RESTORATIONS These are Chula Vista Tile and Stone and Holiday Inn Express in San Diego. Holiday Inn had massive lippage and both were very dirty. Each stone turned out better than new. Travertine, crema Marfil and other calcium stones are our specialty

 

 

 

Below is just about everything you could possibly need to know about the Care and Maintenance of Tile and stone. The information was compiled from as many sources as possible by Andy and Angelica Bertrem. We make no claim as to the accuracy of the statements. We have used "Reliable" sources such as The Marble In stitute of America, The Ceramic Tile Institute of America, and Encyclopedias, as well as various national tile distributors' websites If you have additions or comments, please feel free to e-mail them to Andy@AAAPLUSFLOORS.COM for posting by catagory. Visit our HOMEPAGE for other News and Information pages.

 

Care & Maintenance(Per Arizonatile.com)

 

 

Maintaining Your Natural Stone

A regular maintenance regimen will help your natural stone become more resistant to scratching and wear. Natural stone, especially polished stone, is sensitive to harsh chemicals. Do not use vinegar or any cleaners containing acids or strong alkaline agents. We recommend wiping or mopping stone surfaces with warm water or a pH-balanced neutral cleaner, followed by dry-wiping. If you spill acidic juices or alcohol on the stone, you should blot dry immediately. Acid-based foods, such as citrus or tomatoes, can etch into the polish of more delicate stones, like marble and onyx. Do not place hot items, such as pots and pans, on any stone. As a safety precaution, use coasters on countertops. To prevent alkaline and soap-scum buildup, use squeegees in shower areas. Other large surfaces, such as flooring, are best cared for by a licensed maintenance company to protect the natural stone.

A quality impregnating sealer penetrates stone, allows the stone to breathe and permits more of the stone�s natural beauty to shine through. Unsealed stone is more susceptible to absorbing moisture, dirt and cleaning chemicals. Most licensed fabricators strongly recommend that a penetrating sealer be applied soon after installation of slabs.

Arizona Tile carries a complete line of cleaning and sealing products.

 

Maintenance(per Emser.com)

 

 

� Do clean with a dust mop and neutral cleaner to remove most dirt.

 

 

� Do use a penetrating sealer to prevent staining. Because many stones are porous to some degree, excessive water may cause reactions such as oxidation (rust), spalling, deterioration of dry veins, etc. �Special Impregnating� sealers are recommended to avoid these problems. Emser representatives can recommend appropriate sealers.

 

 

� Do clean natural stones with �special stone cleaners�, �pH balanced cleaners� or �neutral base cleaners.�

 

 

� Do not clean any natural stone with acidic cleaners, including (but not limited to) vinegar or cleaners with �lemon� or �lime� on the label. These products will abrade the polish from the stone. Sealers DO NOT protect polished surfaces from these types of cleaners.

 

Printed from www.MarbleInstitute.org on May 31, 2008

Natural Stone Care and Cleaning(Per The Marble institute of America)

 

General Care

Care and Precautions

Use coasters under all glasses, particularly those containing alcohol or citrus juices. Many common foods and drinks contain acids that will etch or dull the surface of many stones. Do not place hot items directly on the stone surface. Use trivets or mats under hot dishes and placemats under china, ceramics, silver or other objects that can scratch the surface.

 

Cleaning Procedures and Recommendations

Floor Surfaces

 

 

Dust mop interior floors frequently using a clean non-treated dry dust mop. Sand, dirt and grit do the most damage to natural stone surfaces due to their abrasiveness. Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance will help to minimize the sand, dirt and grit that will scratch the stone floor. Be sure that the underside of the mat or rug is a non-slip surface. Normally, it will take a person about eight steps on a floor surface to remove sand or dirt from the bottom of their shoes. Do not use vacuum cleaners that are worn. The metal or plastic attachments or the wheels may scratch the surface.

Other Surfaces

 

 

Clean stone surfaces with a few drops of neutral cleaner, stone soap (available at hardware stores or from your stone dealer) or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water. Use a clean rag mop on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces for best results. Too much cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks. Do not use products that contain lemon, vinegar or other acids on marble or limestone. Rinse the surface thoroughly after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft cloth. Change the rinse water frequently. Do not use scouring powders or creams; these products contain abrasives that may scratch the surface.

Bath and Other Wet Areas

 

 

In the bath or other wet areas, soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of the stone.

Vanity Top Surfaces

 

 

Vanity tops may need to have a penetrating sealer applied. Check with your installer for recommendations. A good quality marble wax or non-yellowing automobile paste wax can be applied to minimize water spotting.

Food Preparation Areas

 

 

In food preparation areas, the stone may need to have a penetrating sealer applied. Check with your installer for recommendations. If a sealer is applied, be sure that it is non-toxic and safe for use on food preparation surfaces. If there are questions, check with the sealer manufacturer.

Outdoor Pool & Patio Areas

 

 

In outdoor pool, patio or hot tub areas, flush with clear water and use a mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.

 

Stone Identification

Know Your Stone

 

 

Natural stone can be classified into two general categories according to its composition: siliceous stone or calcareous stone. Knowing the difference is critical when selecting cleaning products.

Siliceous stone is composed mainly of silica or quartz-like particles. It tends to be very durable and relatively easy to clean with mild acidic cleaning solutions. Types of siliceous stone include granite, slate, sandstone, quartzite, brownstone and bluestone.

Calcareous stone is composed mainly of calcium carbonate. It is sensitive to acidic cleaning products and frequently requires different cleaning procedures than siliceous stone. Types of calcareous stone include marble, travertine, limestone and onyx. What may work on siliceous stone may not be suitable on calcareous surfaces.

How to Tell the Difference

 

 

A simple acid sensitivity test can be performed to determine whether a stone is calcareous or siliceous. You will need about 4 oz. of a 10%solution of muriatic acid and an eye-dropper. Or you can use household vinegar and an eyedropper. Because this test may permanently etch the stone, select an out of the way area(a corner or closet) and several inches away from the mortar joint. Apply a few drops of the acid solution to the stone surface on an area about the size of a quarter. If the stone is calcareous, the acid drops will begin to bubble or fizz vigorously. If little or no reaction occurs, the stone can be considered siliceous. Rinse the area thoroughly with clean water and wipe dry. This test may not be effective if surface sealers or liquid polishes have been applied. If an old sealer is present, chip a small piece of stone away and apply the acid solution to the fractured surface. CAUTION: Muriatic acid is corrosive and is considered to be a hazardous substance. Proper head and body protection is necessary when acid is used.

Stone Finishes

 

 

A polished finish on the stone has a glossy surface that reflects light and emphasizes the color and marking of the material. This type of finish is used on walls, furniture tops and other items, as well as floor tiles.

A honed finish is a satin smooth surface with relatively little light reflection. Generally, a honed finish is preferred for floors, stair treads, thresholds and other locations where heavy traffic will wear off the polished finish. A honed finish may also be used on furniture tops and other surfaces.

A flamed finish is a rough textured surface used frequently on granite floor tiles.

Stone Colors and Appearance

 

 

Granites and marbles are quarried throughout the world in a variety of colors with varying mineral compositions. In most cases, marbles and granites can be identified by visible particles at the surface of the stone. Marble will normally show "veins" or high concentrations. The minerals in granite will typically appear as small flecks distributed uniformly in the stone. Each type of stone is unique and will vary in color, texture and marking.

Sandstones vary widely in color due to different minerals and clays found in the stone. Sandstone is light gray to yellow or red. A dark reddish brown sandstone, also called brownstone, has commonly been used in the northeastern United States and eastern Canada. Bluestone is a dense, hard, fine-grained sandstone of greenish-gray or bluish-gray color and is quarried in the eastern United States.

Limestone is a widely used building stone with colors typically light gray, tan or buff. A distinguishing characteristic of many limestones is the presence of fossils that are frequently visible in the stone surface. Slate is dark green, black, gray, dark red or multi-colored. It is most commonly used as a flooring material and for roof tiles and is often distinguished by its distinct cleft texture.

 

Stains

Spills and Stains

 

 

Blot the spill with a paper towel immediately. Don't wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with plain water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary. If the stain remains, refer to the section in this brochure on stain removal.

Stain Removal

 

 

Identifying the type of stain on the stone surface is the key to removing it. If you don't know what caused the stain, play detective. Where is the stain located? Is it near a plant, a food service area, an area where cosmetics are used? What color is it? What is the shape or pattern? What goes on in the area around the stain? Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical. Deep-seated or stubborn stains may require using a poultice or calling in a professional. The following sections describe the types of stains that you may have to deal with and appropriate household chemicals to use and how to prepare and apply a poultice to remove the stain.

 

Types of Stains and First Step Cleaning Actions

OIL-BASED

 

 

(grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics)

 

 

An oil-based stain will darken the stone and normally must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with bleach OR household detergent OR ammonia OR mineral spirits OR acetone.

ORGANIC

 

 

(coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird droppings)

 

 

May cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains. Indoors, clean with12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.

METAL

 

 

(iron, rust, copper, bronze)

 

 

Iron or rust stains are orange to brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the action of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Metal stains must be removed with a poultice.(See section on Making & Using a Poultice) Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.

BIOLOGICAL

 

 

(algae, mildew, lichens, moss, fungi)

 

 

Clean with diluted (1/2 cup in a gallon of water) ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX BLEACH ANDAMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!

INK

 

 

(magic marker, pen, ink)

 

 

Clean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored stone only!) or lacquer thinner or acetone (dark stones only!)

PAINT

 

 

Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off carefully with a razorblade. Heavy paint coverage should be removed only with a commercial "heavy liquid" paint stripper available from hardware stores and paint centers. These strippers normally contain caustic soda or lye. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone; re-polishing may be necessary. Follow the manufacturer's directions for use of these products, taking care to flush the area thoroughly with clean water. Protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye protection, and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint. Normally, latex and acrylic paints will not cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks and sealants may cause oily stains. Refer to the section on oil-based stains.

WATER SPOTS AND RINGS

 

 

(surface accumulation of hard water)

 

 

Buff with dry 0000 steel wool.

FIRE AND SMOKE DAMAGE

 

 

Older stones and smoke or fire stained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning to restore their original appearance. Commercially available "smoke removers" may save time and effort.

ETCH MARKS

 

 

Etch marks are caused by acids left on the surface of the stone. Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain. Others will both etch and stain. Once the stain has been removed, wet the surface with clear water and sprinkle on marble polishing powder, available from a hardware or lapidary store, or your local stone dealer. Rub the powder onto the stone with a damp cloth or by using a buffing pad with a low-speed power drill. Continue buffing until the etch mark disappears and the marble surface shines. Contact your stone dealer or call a professional stone restorer for refinishing or re-polishing etched areas that you cannot remove.

EFFLORESCENCE

 

 

Efflorescence is a white powder that may appear on the surface of the stone. It is caused by water carrying mineral salts from below the surface of the stone rising through the stone and evaporating. When the water evaporates, it leaves the powdery substance. If the installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder. You may have to do this several times as the stone dries out. Do not use water to remove the powder; it will only temporarily disappear. If the problem persists, contact your installer to help identify and remove the cause of the moisture.

SCRATCHES AND NICKS

 

 

Slight surface scratches may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and re-polished by a professional.

Poultices

Making and Using a Poultice

 

 

A poultice is a liquid cleaner or chemical mixed with a white absorbent material to form a paste about the consistency of peanut butter. The poultice is spread over the stained area to a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with a wood or plastic spatula, covered with plastic and left to work for 24 to 48 hours. The liquid cleaner or chemical will draw out the stain into the absorbent material. Poultice procedures may have to be repeated to thoroughly remove a stain, but some stains may never be completely removed.

Poultice Materials

 

 

Poultice materials include kaolin, fuller's earth, whiting, diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding plaster or talc. Approximately one pound of prepared poultice material will cover one square foot. Do not use whiting or iron-type clays such as fuller's earth with acid chemicals. The reaction will cancel the effect of the poultice. A poultice can also be prepared using white cotton balls, whitepaper towels or gauze pads.

 

Cleaning Agents or Chemicals

OIL-BASED STAINS

 

 

Poultice with baking soda and water OR one of the powdered poultice materials and mineral spirits.

ORGANIC STAINS

 

 

Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and 12% hydrogen peroxide solution (hair bleaching strength) OR use acetone instead of the hydrogen peroxide.

IRON STAINS

 

 

Poultice with diatomaceous earth and a commercially available rust remover. Rust stains are particularly difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.

COPPER STAINS

 

 

Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and ammonia. These stains are difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.

BIOLOGICAL STAINS

 

 

Poultice with dilute ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX AMMO-NIA AND BLEACH! THIS COMBINATIONCREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!

 

Applying the Poultice

Prepare the poultice. If using powder, mix the cleaning agent or chemical to a thick paste the consistency of peanut butter. If using paper, soak in the chemical and let drain. Don't let the liquid drip.

Wet the stained area with distilled water.

Apply the poultice to the stained area about1/4 to 1/2 inch thick and extend the poultice beyond the stained area by about one inch. Use a wood or plastic scraper to spread the poultice evenly.

Cover the poultice with plastic and tape the edges to seal it.

Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly, usually about 24 to 48 hours. The drying process is what pulls the stain out of the stone and into the poultice material. After about 24 hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to dry.

Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. Use the wood or plastic scraper if necessary.

Repeat the poultice application if the stain is not removed. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

If the surface is etched by the chemical, apply polishing powder and buff with burlap or felt buffing pad to restore the surface.

 

Dos and Don'ts

DO Dust mop floors frequently

 

 

DO Clean surfaces with mild detergent or stone soap

 

 

DO Thoroughly rinse and dry the surface after washing

 

 

DO Blot up spills immediately

 

 

DO Protect floor surfaces with non-slip mats or area rugs and countertop surfaces with coasters, trivets or placemats

DON'T Use vinegar, lemon juice or other cleaners containing acids on marble, limestone, travertine or onyx surfaces

 

 

DON'T Use cleaners that contain acid such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners or tub & tile cleaners

 

 

DON'T Use abrasive cleaners such as dry cleansers or soft cleansers

 

 

DON'T Mix bleach and ammonia; this combination creates a toxic and lethal gas

 

 

DON'T Ever mix chemicals together unless directions specifically instruct you to do so

Call your professional stone supplier, installer or a restoration specialist for problems that appear too difficult to treat.

Printed from www.MarbleInstitute.org on May 31, 2008

 

 

Printed from www.MarbleInstitute.org on May 31, 2008

MIA Statement of Position On Sealing Natural Stone Countertops

Most granite countertops do not need to be sealed. Before 1995 there were very few quality penetrating sealers on the market and there were very few cases of staining. Both prior to and after the availability of penetrating sealers, no cases of food poisoning, radon, or food preparation issues associated with treated or untreated granites have been reported. If a homeowner cleans their countertops after each meal, they will rarely, if ever, have staining or cleanability issues with granite. This being said, many granite countertops receive additional benefit from being sealed. That benefit is the further reduction of moisture migration into an already moisture resistant surface.

Should natural stone counters be sealed? In many cases it makes sense to seal marble and granite countertops with a quality sealer. The product should have a life expectancy of ten to fifteen years and be of an oliophobic (resistant to water and oil based stains) nature. Once properly sealed, the stone will be more resistant against everyday dirt and spills.

In today's natural stone industry, many species of granite receive a resin treatment at the factory where the blocks of granite are cut into slabs and then polished. The treatment is used to fill micro-fissures, indentations and other minor characteristics that are found in many natural stones. The reason for the resin treatment is to address what most consumers consider as imperfections, but in reality are "birth marks". The consuming public gravitates to perfection, defined as no "birth marks," and so the marble and granite industry tries to fulfill the desire. Both resined as well as unresined slabs will outlast most of our lifetimes. Granite should, and in most cases will, be the last countertop surface a person will buy, providing a strong return on investment. The bottom line: Sealing resin treated countertops may increase the resistance of the already resistant nature of stone (adopted 11/8/06).

Myths Dispelled(PER MARBLE INSTITUTE OF AMERICA)

Cleanability

 

 

Granite ranked #1 in cleanability when compared to six other countertop surfaces including stainless steel (based on a 1999 study by the Hospitality Institute of Technology and Management).

 

 


 

 

Marble and granite have the same level of cleanability as engineered (based on a 2006 study by the Hospitality Institute of Technology and Management).

 

 


 

 

Price

 

 

Natural stone is competitively priced with quartz surface products and often priced lower.

 

 


 

 

Maintenance

 

 

Natural stone is low maintenance often only requiring warm water, mild dishwashing liquid and a soft cloth to maintain its beauty.

 

 


 

 

Many varieties of natural stone do not need to be sealed, although many are for customer peace of mind.

 

 


 

 

Radon

 

 

Granite does not emit dangerous levels of radon (based on technical paper by Dr. Donald Langmiur, PhD, Colorado School for Mines in 1995, confirming that consumers do not have to worry about radon exposure stemming from natural stone in their home).

 

 


 

 

Individuality

 

 

Stone is a product of nature and has its own unique qualities that distinguish it from quartz surface materials. The wonderful character that is offered by vein patterns, color variations, and other design characteristics of stone should be taken into consideration when selecting the perfect stone for your project. Discuss these characteristics with your natural stone supplier.

 

 


 

 

Genuine Stone is truly The Natural Choice!

 

Taking care of marble.

From: Sunset | Date: 5/1/1987

Taking care of marble

Beautiful and durable, marble is a highlyvalued building material for countertops, fireplace hearths, floors, and a host of other uses (to read all about shopping for marble, see page 102 of the October 1984 Sunset). But despite its hearty appearance, marble can stain or scratch with abuse or improper care. Here's all you need to know to renew and maintain a marble surface.

We cleaned a soiled fireplace hearth, usinga care system that includes a cleaner, sealer, polish, and a poultice mix; key steps are shown in the photographs.

A poultice mix to suit the stain

Act fast against spills. Wash them offquickly or they'll soak into the stone.

If a stain persists, you may be able todraw it out with an inexpensive poultice mix ($15 a pound). It's not a readily available product, however; for leads, call a fabricator or distributor of marble or tile products.

Or make your own poultice, combining anabsorbent powder (baking soda, talc, or plaster of Paris, for example) with a solvent or strong liquid cleanser (such as acetone). The Marble Institute of America recommends some specific poultices for everyday stains:

Smoke, soot, cigarette stains: baking sodaand liquid bleach.

Coffee, tea, soft drinks, food: absorbentpowder with sodium citrate crystals and water.

Oil, butter, grease, cosmetics: absorbentpowder with acetone, naphtha, or mineral spirits.

Alcohol, rings from drink glasses: bakingsoda and a 6-percent solution of hydrogen peroxide.

Step-by-step: how to apply the poultice

Wear rubber gloves and eye protection;make sure the room is well ventilated. Clean the marble with lukewarm soapy water, or use a marble cleaner ($9 a pint).

For the poultice, combine ingredients toform a paste about the consistency of creamy peanut butter. Wipe down the stained area with the same liquid that you used for the paste. Apply a 1/4-inch layer of paste with a wooden or plastic spatula or spoon; don't use metal. Cover with plastic wrap, then seal all the edges with masking tape.

After 48 hours, remove the wrap. Moistenthe poultice with water and carefully scrape it off. Sponge the stone clean with water, then dry with a soft cloth. Stubborn stains may take two or more treatments; if stains are severe, you may never get then completely out.

When you're through cleaning, reseal thesurface or simply use a liquid or powder polish (available from a marble distributor, hardware store, or lapidary store). Liquids go on easily, straight from the can. Or wet the top with water and sprinkle with powder; rub with a damp, soft cloth or with a buffing pad on a power drill at low speed. This should remove any etch marks left from the poultice procedure and restore the sheen.

Caring for and restoring marble

These are the key maintenance measures.

Prevent damage. Use coasters, place mats,heating pads, or other buffers to protect a marble surface. Also, never let cosmetics with oil bases (which cause stains that can soak all the way through) or ferrous metal (which can leave rust marks) come into contact with marble.

Take care in cleaning. Periodic cleaningis a must, but it's easy. Simply wash the surface with a mild detergent diluted in lukewarm water, rinse, and dry completely with a soft cloth.

You can also turn to a liquid cleaner, butuse one made specifically for marble; multipurpose cleaners are risky. Never use abrasive cleaners, as they can cause scratches and dull the sheen. Steer clear of automobile rubbing or polishing compounds; some contain oil-base solvents that can dull or even stain the surface you mean to clean.

Fix shallow scratches. You can virtuallyerase shallow scratches by polishing as described above, but if the scratch is deep, you should probably call in a professional.

Apply a sealer? Some marble dealers recommendusing a penetrating sealer ($10 a pint) after cleaning; the sealer seeps into the pores, helps prevent stains from soaking in, and can bring back the sheen. A sealer is particularly useful in heavy-use areas; to prolong life in these places, reseal two or three times a year.

But before you buy, read the label or askif the sealer is appropriate for your type of marble and won't yellow it. And avoid using a wax-base sealer on marble flooring --the finish will likely be too slick to walk on safely.

Treat fungus or mildew. To get rid offungus or mildew in damp quarters such as a bathroom, add a bit of bleach to your detergent mix (about a teaspoon per pint). Remember: too much bleach or having bleach on the stone too long can etch the surface and dull its sheen.

Give kitchen marble special care. Useonly mild detergent in warm water--or a poultice if necessary. Never use vinegar; it actually dissolves marble, leaving a dull etch mark. A penetrating sealer is all right, but give the surface an extra day or two to dry before preparing food on it.

For a six-page brochure on marble care,send $1.35 to the Marble Institute of America, 33505 State St., Farmington, Mich. 48024.

Photo: Cleaned-up marble hearth had severe smoke and soot stains.Easy two-day process outlined at right and on pages 162 and 163 eliminated most stains, reduced others

Photo: Supplies for proper care includecleaning products, plastic wrap, bucket, sponge, rubber gloves, masking tape, plastic spatula, and soft cloths

Photo: 1. Use terry-cloth rag with solventto get up as much soil and dirt as possible. Dry with a soft cloth

Photo: 2. Spread poultice in a 1/4-inchlayer; extend it slightly beyond area that's badly stained

Photo: 3. Tape edges of plastic wrap. After48 hours, remove wrap, dampen poultice, and remove with spatula

Photo: 4. Rub down surface with a soft clothabout 30 minutes after you have protected it with a liquid sealer

 

 

 

 

 

AAA PLUS FLOORS R US, Inc. dba BERTREM CUSTOM TILE AND MARBLE



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